The checklist at a glance
- Paperwork: registration certificate, ID, previous test certificate
- Dipped beam and main beam headlights
- Front, rear and side indicators — and hazard lights
- Brake lights and reversing lights
- Number plate light
- Tyres: tread, damage, same type on each axle
- Brakes and handbrake
- Wipers and washer fluid
- Windscreen and mirrors
- Horn and seat belts
- Warning lights on the dashboard
- Exhaust and leaks under the car
1. Paperwork
You need the vehicle registration certificate (άδεια κυκλοφορίας), an ID card, passport or driving licence for the person bringing the vehicle and — if you have it — the previous inspection certificate. If the vehicle runs on LPG or natural gas, also bring the installation documents.
You will find the full list for each vehicle category on our Documents page.
2–5. Lights: the easiest check
Ask someone to stand outside the car and switch on each one in turn: dipped beam, main beam, indicators (front, rear and side), hazard lights, brake lights (press the pedal), reversing lights and the number plate light.
A blown bulb costs a few euros and takes minutes to replace — but if we find it, you will need a re-test. Also check whether your headlight lenses have turned cloudy or yellow: they noticeably reduce the light output.
6. Tyres
- Tread depth: the legal minimum for cars is 1.6 mm. Most tyres have small “wear indicators” inside the grooves — once the tread is level with them, it is time to replace the tyre.
- Damage: cracks, bulges or cuts in the sidewalls.
- Uneven wear: if a tyre wears on one edge only, there is usually an alignment or suspension problem.
- Same type per axle: both front tyres and both rear tyres must be the same size and type.
7. Brakes and handbrake
On the inspection line the brakes are measured wheel by wheel on a brake tester. What you can notice are the warning signs: the car pulls to one side when braking, you hear grinding or squealing, the pedal feels soft or the steering wheel shakes when you brake.
The handbrake should hold the car firmly on a slope. If you notice any of the above, have a mechanic look at it before you come — brakes are not a DIY job.
8–9. Wipers, windscreen and mirrors
- The wipers clean without leaving streaks and the washers spray properly.
- Cracks or large chips in the windscreen, especially in the driver’s field of view, can count as a defect.
- Mirrors are intact and adjustable.
10–11. Horn, seat belts and dashboard
The horn must work. Every seat belt must latch and retract properly — check the rear ones too, as they are rarely used. If a warning light stays on on the dashboard (for example ABS, airbag or engine), it usually means a fault worth looking into before the test.
12. Exhaust and leaks
An exhaust that sounds louder than usual often has a hole in it. Also look at the ground where you park: drops of oil or other fluids mean there is a leak.
Drive for at least 15–20 minutes before you arrive. With a warm engine and catalytic converter, the emissions measurement takes place under the right conditions.
On the day
- A clean car — especially underneath and around the number plates — is easier to inspect.
- Empty the boot as much as you can.
- Bring your documents with you.
- No appointment needed — but a quick call on +30 28410 21111 means zero waiting. Our office staff speak English.
This checklist helps you avoid the usual problems, but it does not replace the inspection. On the test line we use instruments to measure things you cannot see — such as brake balance or play in the steering.
Frequently asked questions
Should I wash the car before the KTEO test?
It is not required, but it helps — especially a clean underside and clean number plates.
Will my car fail for a blown bulb?
It is recorded as a defect. Once you replace it, you come back for a re-inspection, which costs €5.